Wednesday, April 22, 2015
Inspire fog lights
Picture time line of the install starting with testing the bulbs. I included extra pics of them mounted from behind the bumper because I referenced pics from this thread during the install.
INSTALL TIME.
STEP 1.- Take the bumper off
Wanted to make sure they still light up
STEP 2. - Test fitment
STEP 3. Cutting- cut less than you think you need to go back over the area if they still don't fit. I cut too much of my grill so it had a gap and had to remake my grill and cut properly,could have been avoided if it cut less first. Remember to cut a slit for air intake flow on the driver side.
On the right side I had to cut some of the grill trim to get the little vent parts to fit on the left of the fog.
STEP 4. Secure them- We used short self tapping screws making sure they didn't puncture the headlight,just the mounting. They were pretty secure with just that but decided to epoxy them in and let it sit over night. After that I went over them with black silicone. Used silver sharpie to mark the position where it looked best and flush in the bumper so we can hold in place while securing.
SCREWS
EPOXY & SILICONE
Top and bottom making sure there were no gaps
WIRE TIE- incase all else fails the fog is still tied to the bumper and won't fall out. also helps keep in place while epoxy sets.
STEP 5 -MOUNTING -
Yes I do have my CATZ fog lights still and think I may keep them.
You need to relocate one of the horns or else the fog light case hits them and bumper can't fit on the passenger side. I unscrewed one and then zip tied it near the horn I left screwed in so it can clear it.
Make sure they light up before putting your bumper back on.
While I had the bumper off I put in 5K hid for my low beam and redid my LED switchback strip.
DAY 1 in daylight
DAY 2 daytime
NIGHT TIME - lots of lights
Independent Fogs, 5K bulbs, and DRL led bulb
Just fogs
All lights on
Fog with LEDS
ALL with grill lights
All lights
LED strip
Switchback blinkers,LED drl and LED strip
Got very lucky getting the Inspire for $45 because an eBay guy was out of stock! Thinking back it may have been cool to add a small LED in the fogs to illuminate them but oh well. I'm open to any questions, comments, and picture request but could care less about what people think about my red trim or excessive lights! :tongue:[/QUOTE]
Monday, April 13, 2015
Lowering springs
Last weekend I installed these MR-CDK-TP03 Megan Racing - Street Series Coilovers. After shopping around I found them for $845 with free shipping at Vexmotrosports.com. Part number matches the ones from megan's site and ebay but no picture. They came quickly in one heavy box that needs a signature. My car is a 2006 with front strut bar and rear sway.

There are tons of DIY on how to replace shocks and struts. This is a bit easier since we don't have to mess with springs. In short remove all the proper bolts, take the old strut /shock assembly out then slide the new ones in. The following is a collection of install pics and notes because I couldn't find any and hope this helps someone.
Old rear vs new rear. I didn't touch the height on the rear,it came low like this. Guessing like an 2 inch drop.

On the rears it came with an washer so I took out the factory washer. Wasn't sure where the new one goes at first. This picture is WRONG, the washer should go on the inside or else the bottom cylinder part hits. The washer goes on the inside then and bolt on the outside. I used PB blaster to help loosen bolts and a propane touch. Trunk and rear seats need to be removed to get to two top bolts.

Installed right rear. Should be labeled right side. If you get mixed up match up all the mounts on the old one vs the new one.


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Old one pulled out.

Rear lowered only

Time for Fronts

You have to remove the wiper assembly to get to the top bolts.

Don't forget to remove the brake cables.

Just to compare old vs new.



Fronts were still high so had to adjust per the included instructions. In short loosen the bottom black locking nut, move up to go lower then turn the top red locking nut the opposite direction. After a few turns I just started moving the whole things by hand until the bottom black lock nut hits the silver lower part. Measure the gap and make the gap on the other side the same.


Left the wipers off so I could double check nuts and adjust damper. There are instructions on damper too. In short loose the top bolt then turn all the way right then go way left. Start adjusting from there. Mine are currently in the center. Then readjust after that to your preference.


Rears gap.

Fronts... Thinking of going lower.

After this my alignment was way off. Needed an camber bolt and rear shim to adjust at the thrid place I took it. First two didn't want to work on a lowered car. One claimed it's because the height won't show right on their machine. No issues scraping getting on the rack. I did not need to roll the fenders with stock tires but may soon just to prep for future projects.
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